Most sofas that “don’t fit” would have fitted the room; it is the route in that fails. Measure every point the sofa has to pass, in inches, and note the smallest number.
What to measure
- Doorways: width and height of the clear opening, from the inside of the frame. If a door is open, measure from the door edge to the far side of the frame; hinges and handles can take an inch or two.
- Hallways: the narrowest width, including radiators, handrails and light fittings. Note any tight turns.
- Stairs: width between rails or walls, and the ceiling height above the stairs, especially at landings and turns.
- Elevators: door width, and the inside depth and height of the car.
- The room: the wall length where the sofa will go and the room depth in front of it.
What to compare them with
A sofa usually goes through a door on its back or side, so the numbers that matter are its depth and height, not its width. As a rule of thumb:
- If the sofa’s depth or height is smaller than the door width, it should pass.
- If not, check its diagonal depth. If that is smaller than the door width, it can usually be tilted through.
- Sofas that ship compressed or in boxes only need their largest box to pass.
How to measure a sofa’s diagonal depth
If the diagonal depth is not listed, take it from the side of the sofa. Lay a straight edge from the top of the back to the front of the arm, then measure from the bottom back corner up to the middle of that straight edge.
Check your measurements
Enter your numbers below, or use the checker on any sofa’s page, which already knows that sofa’s dimensions.
Will it fit?
Enter the tightest measurements on the way in, in inches. Leave out anything that does not apply.
This is an estimate from your measurements and the listed dimensions, not a guarantee. Tight turns, railings, trim and door hinges can reduce clearance.
Tight turns and railings are not captured by straight measurements. If any result comes back tight, contact us before ordering.